ABSTRACT

The purpose of this study is to reestablish the innovative and experimental designs of Rei Kawakubo by considering and analyzing the flow on the avant-garde nature of her design collection from 1981 to 2017. Design trends such as the art trend, silhouette, color, and expressive technique showcased in Rei Kawakubo’s collection from 1981 spring/summer to 2017 spring/summer were examined through precedent studies, books, internet materials, and the avant-garde expressive nature of her designs appearing in modern fashion. Additionally, this study considers the definition of avant- garde and analyzes the expressive nature of Rei Kawakubo’s 137 works from the Comme des Garcons collection, exhibited in New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. As a result of this examination, the avant-garde expressive nature seen in modern fashion was classified into the following themes: historicity, de-structure, exaggeration, intermixture, and surrealism. As a result of reclassifying these characteristics according to historical flow, the historicty, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 1980s, while intermixture, exaggeration, and de-structure appeared in the 1990s. More recently, historicity, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 2000s, and intermixture, de-structure, exaggeration, and surrealism appeared in the 2010s. The present study is significant in providing theoretical material for the more innovative and various design development in diverse domains while helping to define and understand the avant-garde expression through Rei Kawakubo’s collection.

KEYWORD

Comme des Garcons, Rei Kawakubo, avant- garde

REFERENCES(26)open

  1. [thesis] Bae, J. L. / 2007 / The characteristics of the transavantgarde expressed in modern fashion

  2. [book] Bolton, A. / 2017 / Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons : Art of the in-between / The Metropolitan Museum of Art

  3. [thesis] Choi, Y. M. / 1991 / A new perspective on style and its change in the historical methodology on dress: Selected surrealism of dress

  4. [thesis] Fan, J. -L. / 2014 / A study on design of romantic avantgarde in the modern costume

  5. [book] Federico, P. / 2010 / Il Novecento: Avanguardie [The twentieth century: Avant-garde] / Maroniebooks

  6. [book] Jin, J. K. / 2011 / (진중권의)서양미술사 : 모더니즘편 [Western art history : Modernnism] / Humanist

  7. [book] Jin, W. Y. / 2008 / 아방가르드란 무엇인가 : 아방가르 드 미술, 도전과 새로움의 역사 [What is Avantgarde] / Minumsa

  8. [thesis] Jun, E. B. / 2010 / A study on design concept and characteristics in Rei Kawakubo's fashion and space

  9. [jounal] Kim, M. J. / 1996 / A study on avantgarde fashion / Journal of Research Institute of Human Ecology 21 : 131 ~ 143

  10. [jounal] 김선영 / 2017 / 언리얼에이지(Anrealage) 패션컬렉션에 나타난아방가르드 특성 - 2015S/S~2016F/W 컬렉션을 중심으로 - / 한국디자인포럼 (55) : 49 ~ 62

  11. [jounal] 具仁淑 / 2002 / 1995年 以後 아방가르드 패션의 디자인 分析+ / 패션 비즈니스 6 (4) : 62 ~ 82

  12. [book] Korea Dictionary Research Publishing / 1997 / Fashion전문 자료사전 [A fashion dictionary] / Korea Dictionary Research Publishing

  13. [jounal] 이지은 / 2008 / Comme des Garcons 컬렉션에 표현된 현대 내추럴리즘 패션 트렌드 / 한국생활과학회지 17 (4) : 771 ~ 784

  14. [jounal] 이경희 / 2010 / 가와쿠보 레이의 코스츔 메시지 / 한국의류산업학회지 12 (2) : 139 ~ 148

  15. [jounal] 이상례 / 2003 / 레이 가와쿠보의 디자인을 통해 본 現代衣裳의 逸脫性 / 패션 비즈니스 7 (5) : 45 ~ 53

  16. [thesis] Li, J. / 2017 / Appear in Japanese fashion designer works expression elements of avant-garde

  17. [jounal] 박수연 / 2016 / 레이 가와쿠보 컬렉션에 나타난 맥시멀리즘의 표현 특성 분석 / 복식문화연구 24 (5) : 626 ~ 641

  18. [thesis] Roh, J. S. / 1994 / (A) study on avant-garde fashion

  19. [jounal] 송정선 / 2003 / 현대 패션에 나타난 아방가르드(Avant-Garde) 현상- 알랙산더 맥퀸의 컬랙션 작품을 중심으로 - / 한국디자인문화학회지 9 (4) : 65 ~ 78

  20. [book] Um, S. H. / 2000 / 현대복식의 패러다임 : 아방가르드의 특성을 중심으로 [The paradigmof modern fashion : Focused on avantgardeabstracts] / Kyungchoonsa

  21. [web] Vogue Korea / Issey Miyake: Fall/ Winter 2014 ready to wear

  22. [web] Vogue Korea. / Comme des Garcons: Fall/Winter 2016 ready to wear

  23. [web] Vogue Korea / Jean Paul Gaultier: Fall/Winter 2016 haute couture

  24. [web] Vogue Korea / Maison Margiela: Fall/ Winter 2016 haute couture

  25. [web] Vogue Korea / Yohji Yamamoto: Fall/ Winter 2017 ready to wear

  26. [jounal] 임은혁 / 2007 / 일본 아방가르드 패션의 미학 -몸의 평면화를 중심으로 / 복식 57 (1)